New York Fashion Week, once hailed as the vibrant epicenter of a fresh fashion movement, distinct from the established prestige of Milan and Paris or the avant-garde flair of London, has seen a decline in popularity in recent years. Gradually, New York has been criticized for leaning too heavily towards commercialism, playing it safe, and yet, paradoxically, not always yielding profitable outcomes for the brands whose primary goal is to drive sales. Despite ongoing challenges in securing support, both financial and otherwise, the fall/winter 2024 season has underscored the abundant presence of promising young talent worthy of recognition. This resurgence stands in stark contrast to some of the city's previous fashion triumphs.
Anniversaries and New York Originals
Marc Jacobs, named Design Student of the Year at Parsons in 1984, recently commemorated his label's 40th anniversary with a show that wasn't officially part of New York Fashion Week's schedule. However, the event underscored the true depth of New York's creative potential. The collection itself was inspired by the ordinary, featuring seemingly commonplace garments and shapes reminiscent of 1960s housewives. As is typical of Jacobs, these elements were exaggerated yet impeccably tailored. Models strutted beneath a large-scale sculpture of American artist Robert Therrien's 2006 work 'No Title (folding table and chairs, beige)', infusing the line with a childlike wonder, fittingly named "Wonder". Perhaps Jacobs, like much of the industry, recognizes the rarity of a sustained success story like his and thus celebrated this milestone with fervor, more poignantly and publicly than ever before.
Joseph Altuzarra, once dubbed "the new kid on the block", marked his 15th anniversary with a collection presented at his headquarters, exclusively for those who have been staunch supporters throughout his career. Vogue Runways global director Nicole Phelps noted that the salon-style show and collection felt deeply personal, resonating not only with the designer but also with the loyal customers of the brand. Drawing inspiration from equestrian apparel, the style of Princess Diana, and the portraits of art deco artist Tamara de Lempicka, the collection exuded nostalgia without sacrificing modernity or the contemporary woman.
Tory Burch, in business five years longer than Altuzarra, celebrated the 20th anniversary of her first store opening. While a fixture on the New York schedule, the brand has recently experienced a resurgence, crowned as a breakout brand by the Lyst Index. Nominated for Womenswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA, the brand has successfully transitioned from commercial to cult status, according to the British search engine. The anniversary show radiated joyfulness as models confidently strutted the runway to the tunes of The Cure and Joy Division, showcasing a vibrant array of shiny frocks alongside subdued office attire ingeniously transformed into work-appropriate hoodies.
Two New York prodigies, Proenza Schouler and Khaite, had no anniversaries to celebrate this season but plenty of reasons for rejoicing nonetheless. Proenza Schouler, led by Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez since 2002, has always been a favorite among the city's it-girls. Meanwhile, Catherine Holstein's brand Khaite has achieved cult status in just a few short years since its founding in 2016. Holstein, twice named CFDA Designer of the Year in 2022 and 2023, has cultivated a devoted following. Both brands epitomize the essence of the 'cool girl' based in the big city. While Holstein embraced the trending 'Mob-Wife' aesthetic this season with shearling coats, gold chains, oxblood colors, and lots of leather, Proenza Schouler focused on clean lines, sharp tailoring, and layered staples.
Tommy and Thom return to the city, Ludovic De Saint Sernin makes a pit stop
Titled 'New York Moment', Tommy Hilfiger's return to New York City this season was a nostalgic tribute to his lifelong memories in the city. The show, held at Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal, showcased classic American style, featuring Hilfiger's signature pieces like rugby shirts paired with pleated skirts, baseball caps with shirts and ties, varsity jackets, hoodies, and tweed separates. The color palette of red, blue, and white brought Tommy's Americana to life on the runway.
Thom Browne, chairman of the CFDA, made a remarkable comeback closing the FW24 season with an Edgar Allan Poe-inspired collection. Despite skipping the spring/summer 2024 presentations in September, Browne's return was a theatrical display of American fashion. The collection seamlessly blended commercial appeal with storytelling, featuring striking black headpieces resembling ravens and coats adorned with black birds, among other inventive designs.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, a Paris-based designer, made a surprising NYFW debut this season. Known for his presence on the Paris Fashion Week calendar since 2017, Sernin's debut in New York was partly due to a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation and to cater to his US customer base, which accounts for 32 percent of the brand’s overall sales. The runway presentation showcased a narrative journey from youthful innocence to sensual maturity, featuring Mapplethorpe's blossoms hand-cut in velvet juxtaposed with Sernin's glam metal mesh designs incorporating pixelated crystals. The collection transitioned from sultry leather coats to bondage-inspired attire while maintaining a luxurious aesthetic throughout.
The ‘new guard’ redefining fashion in New York
De Saint Sernin isn't the sole young and captivating designer to opt for New York as their stage this season. Others, such as Willy Chavarria, Collina Strada, or Eckahaus Latta, consider the bustling metropolis their home and have long made themselves heard among the big commercial names on the CFDA's official schedule.
Similar to Tommy Hilfiger in days past, Willy Chavarria has taken American Ivy prep and given it a new definition. However, while Hilfiger's prep remains rooted in privilege, Chavarria has taken the inspiration and transformed Americana into something far more inclusive. Named 'Safe From Harm', the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year's FW24 collection narrated a story about collectively ensuring each other's safety, utilizing tailoring and familiar fabrics such as tweed, herringbone, and glen plaids.
Fabrics and texture played significant roles in Eckhaus Latta's FW collection as well. The designer duo Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta experimented with unique knits and non-traditional fabrics, as is customary for the brand. However, this season, their mood appeared to shift from playful to serious. The collection commenced with a rendition of Lana Del Rey's 'hope is a dangerous thing for a girl like me to have – but I have it', setting the tone for a slightly more subdued yet equally accomplished collection. The brand, in business for 13 years now, presented a collection featuring clean lines and cubist patterns, emphasizing wearable wardrobe staples rather than solely focusing on seductive allure. Sheer mesh shirting, maxi dresses with satin fringes, and chest-bearing 'vests' reminiscent of ropes showcased the brand's talent for carving its path in an industry where the balance between commerce and creative output sometimes takes a back seat.
Creativity remains paramount at Luar, though this season, a surprise appearance from singer Beyoncé nearly overshadowed even the most creative of designers. Fortunately, Luar's Raul Lopez unveiled a collection that easily held its own, all while heralding the return of 'the metrosexual'. Defined by the Oxford Dictionary as "a man who is typically heterosexual and highly interested in fashion, grooming, and his appearance in a manner often associated with women," the term and phenomenon behind it, at least under Luar's FW24 collection, are rooted in the 90s. The reference was intriguing given Luar's consistent gender-fluid ethos. The brand's signature oversized boulder shoulders adorned tailored pieces, outerwear, and dresses, complemented by distinctive warped design elements. Standout moments include a dusty maroon-covered suit paired with a toffee-hued balaclava overlay and light-wash printed denim merged with a ribbed white knit top, as well as an oversized yet structured navy leather suit with fur arm detailing, contrasted with an ivory silk button-down and tie, encapsulating the collection's interplay between masculinity and femininity.
