French theorist Roland Barthes once pondered, "Is not the most erotic portion of the body where the garment gapes?" Considering the abundant display of flesh witnessed this past September, one can only imagine Barthes' reaction to the prevailing spring/summer 2022 fashion trend. In terms reminiscent of Cardi B's expression, fashion is embracing a bold and daring sensuality, reminiscent of "macaroni in a pot." Short, sheer, and form-fitting designs are making a striking comeback.
For some time, fashion has flirted with the concept of underwear as outerwear, occasionally featuring provocative elements like stripper heels. However, following a liberating "hot-vax" summer where youth discarded their inhibitions, designers have reimagined sensuality in new and daring ways. Nensi Dojaka and Supriya Lele, among others, have embraced a hedonistic approach, garnering attention with their sheer, body-hugging creations. In Paris, Ludovic de Saint Sernin's collection, sponsored by Pornhub, pushed boundaries with tiny strips of leather braided together.
Established fashion powerhouses also joined the sensual wave. Donatella Versace injected her signature allure with thigh-slits, midriffs, chainmail, and latex. Gucci explored nuances of sensuality with transparent lace dresses, latex bustiers, and provocative accessories in a show in LA. Prada, under the theme "Seduction, Stripped Down," subverted conventional allure with corsetry and micro hemlines paired with demure kitten heels.
Fashion is evolving to embrace diversity, recognizing that sensuality transcends shapes, skin tones, and sizes. Models like Precious Lee, Alva Claire, and Paloma Elsesser brought much-needed body diversity to the runways, alongside Indigenous model Quannah Chasinghorse.
Collections exuded a sense of liberation, even beyond themes of sensuality or body diversity. At Chanel, models smiled and twirled, echoing '90s supermodels, while vibrant colors dominated the catwalks, alongside a resurgence of Y2K trends and the timeless biker jacket.
Despite claims that Covid disrupted fashion trends, spring/summer 2022 showcased a creative mix of styles responding to the post-pandemic world. At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière envisioned a vampire figure adapting to various eras' dress codes, resulting in eclectic yet cohesive ensembles.
While trends may be declared dead, the essence of trends lives on. Here are the ten major spring/summer 2022 fashion trends to watch:
Micro Mania
Just when you thought hemlines couldn't ascend any higher, along came Miuccia Prada with a Miu Miu showcase tempting you to reach for dressmaking shears. Miu Miu's minis, worn low on the hips and barely covering the essentials, exude audacity. This trend extends beyond Miu Miu; Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Bottega Veneta, Chanel, and even Emporio Armani are amplifying the daring with their own versions of provocative minis. And for those questioning the length, Miuccia's cryptic post-show remark offers a fitting response: "Strange is not strange anymore."
Motorcycle Diaries
It's been too long since a stellar biker jacket graced the streets. Prepare yourselves: the biker jacket resurgence is here. At Acne Studios, Supriya Lele, and Miu Miu, the '90s-inspired slim-fit, lapel-free motorcycle jacket dominates. Balenciaga and Prada offer oversized iterations with multiple zips, while Alexander McQueen, Simone Rocha, and Richard Quinn infuse funkiness with leather, denim blends, and stud embellishments. Whichever style appeals, this Kate Moss-esque staple is primed for a comeback.
Colour Me Free
Neutrals have no place in 2022. With vibrant color combinations stealing the spotlight, the catwalks are a feast for the eyes. Valentino combines chocolate brown, raspberry, and cerulean blue for a delectable palette, while Halpern juxtaposes tangerine with fuchsia in a balletic display. For those wary of mixing colors, Emilia Wickstead and Christian Siriano advocate for head-to-toe saturation.
Drama At The Back
Shift the focus from making an entrance to making an exit in the new year. Picture the swish of Gucci's red caped mini dress trailing behind you, evoking Gaga's iconic style. Maximilian spikes send champagne flutes flying as you execute the ultimate exit maneuver. Whether it's Gucci's drama or Prada's satin tails, embrace the theatrics—just watch out for revolving doors.
Between The Lines
For those fluent in fringing and confident in stripes, fringed stripes reign supreme. JW Anderson's mini dresses, Louis Vuitton's going-out tops paired with deep-blue denim, and Gucci's feathered coats exemplify this trend. If fringing feels excessive, opt for classic marinière strokes, '70s diagonals, or libertine lines for a subtler take.
So Fresh And So Clean
Minimalists rejoice: a burst of Colgate white, worn head-to-toe, feels invigorating for spring/summer 2022. The Row, Peter Do, and Alaïa offer pared-down elegance, while Hermès and Valentino reimagine the white trouser suit. At Chloé, white exudes bohemian warmth, providing a cozy antidote to clinical trends.
The New Sexy
Sheer, tight, and short reign supreme in the realm of sensuality. Emerging designers like Nensi Dojaka, Supriya Lele, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, and Coperni redefine sexiness with daring silhouettes. The key to embracing this trend? Invest in comfortable cotton pants and take a deep breath.
Up All Night
Fabulousness is the only dress code required for after-dark glamour. Sequins, chainmail, sparkling mesh, crystals, and heavy embellishments abound as fashion celebrates liberation from challenging lockdowns. Overdressing is a thing of the past—embrace the extravagance.
Millennium Bug
The allure of the 2000s is irresistible come spring. Blumarine leads the charge with military fairies, sexy butterfly girls, and low-waisted mermaids. Etro embraces low-rise styles, while cargo pants make a comeback at Tom Ford and Zimmermann. Embrace the nostalgia—Dua Lipa and the TikTok generation certainly will.
Tinker, Tailor
The blend of structured blazers and fluid dresses offers confidence and ease—a perfect solution to pandemic-induced fashion dilemmas. Altuzarra opts for straightforward elegance, while Louis Vuitton adds theatrical flair. Don't miss out on the opportunity to play with contrasting styles—channel Naomi Campbell at Alexander McQueen for the best of both worlds.
